Title Image: The Ritual Begins- Rapakan Aidarkulova, a 63-year-old woman from Karakol is a traditional Kyrgyz healer.

A crowd patiently waits, snaking around the dark halls of a small office. Some pace nervously while children bounce in laps. One’s first guess of this being an underequipped doctor’s office isn’t so far off. Actually, this busy room filled with clients who quickly enter and exit a small examination room, waiting for some mysterious physician are turning to the traditional Kyrgyz practice of healing that was once forgotten during Soviet times Rapakan Aidarkulova, a 63-year-old woman from Karakol near Lake Issyk Kul is just one healer playing an active part in this countrywide resurgence of traditional knowledge within Kyrgyzstan.

With the collapse of the Soviet Union more Kyrgyz are rediscovering once rigidly controlled and often forbidden traditional practices turning to ancestral knowledge as a key to the past. These practices include pilgrimages to sacred sites known as Mazaars, soothsaying, treatment from traditional healers, and the reciting of oral histories in the form of the world’s large epic -Manas.

During the Soviet Union, traditional practices were heavily restricted and believed to be strong expressions of nationalism that threatened stability within the republics. Under Party control, healers, soothsayers, and other traditional practitioners were forced to hide their abilities, practicing behind closed doors away from prying eyes.

“Returning to traditional knowledge, isn’t a surprise, because it’s our mentality, our lifestyle, we remain Kyrgyz, despite what regime we follow,” said healer Rapakan Aidarkulova.

At the moment, Aidarkulova who is also a soothsayer reading into the futures of others is mainly practicing traditional medicine, seeing a nearly endless stream of individuals at her office. She uses massage therapy and other methods to tap into her clients’ consciousness to solve their personal problems ranging from infertility to impotence. Through the use of stones, pungent roots, old fashioned fire and a variety of other traditional healing tools, healers like Aidarkulova continue to treat believers the same as their ancestors have for hundreds of years.

As she starts her fertility ritual: Rapakan lights seven candles -a sacred number for the Kyrgyz people. Then forming a ciricle with the candles she beings saying a prayer, asking for spiritual guidance. As she finishes, Rapakan opens her eyes and takes her stones into her hands; she throws stones at the surface of the table and starts telling what is bothering her client and how the problem could be solved. Unlike ordinary doctors Rapakan isn’t a formally trained medical specialists, but she works with dozens of health problems, such as fertility issues, blood pressure, long-term illnesses that clients report to be oddly successful.

Through what she believes to be gifts from a higher power Rapakan has treated thousands of clients and continues to read the future of many.

“My visions of the future that I have thought as of intuition in the beginning have rapidly grown more, and I could even fell into a trance while having lunch with my family, people around me were afraid of consequences,” says Rapakan.

Spirits of my ancestors and great Kyrgyz people speak about unity and friendship, which are so necessary for our nation,” she added.

Editor’s note: Nargiza Ryskulova is a student contributor to Sonsofhedin.org

Title Image: Ala-Bell Pass- On the road to Osh vendors gather to sell honey products in the lush hills of the Ala-Too range.

The road from the Kyrgz capital city of Bishkek to the country’s southern capital of Osh is an unforgetable journey that brings travelers through the Ala-Too mountain range to the lush and fertile lands of the Ferghana Valley. Among the melting snow Kyrgyz gather along the road side to sell fermented mares milk and kurut. In the south children block the road selling fresh produce, the most popular of which is rhubarb.

During this 12 hour journey through high mountain passes and sharp cut backs partially blocked by landslides, one gets a true taste of the diversity within Kyrgyzstan.

Title Image: Close Call- Victory Day celebrations with a match of At Ordysh

May 9th known as Victory Day marks the Soviet Union’s triumph over European fascist forces in 1945 during “The Great Patriotic War” known in the west as World War Two. This important holiday celebrated throughout the former Soviet Republics and Israel commemorates the sacrifices made by those who served during this bloody conflict, which cost the lives of over 25 million people within the Soviet Union.

Yet even after independence, Victory Day is still observed in all of the former Republics but in a country like Kyrgyzstan it has taken on a distinctly Central Asian flavor with entire communities coming together, paying homage to veterans during a day full of eating, drinking, and traditional games.

On May 9^th, in the northern province of Chui near the city of Kara-Balta, a typical day of festivities took place with 6 villages gathering to pay respect to their veterans and to compete for several cash prizes in traditional Kyrgyz games ranging from horse races called At Chabysh to old fashioned wrestling.

One of the most popular games, At Ordysh or horse wrestling is a spectacle of brute strength and agility rooted in the Kyrgyz people’s nomadic traditions. In this game two riders face off, trying to either dismount their opponent or remove a colored sash tied around his opponent’s stomach. Horse bites and broken limbs are a fairly common occurrence making this sport not for the faint of heart.

The highlight of the day’s celebration is a match of Ulak Tartesh known as Buzkashi in neighboring Uzbekistan, where two teams of riders fight over a goat carcass in a game that marries the rules of polo and brutality of rugby. Ulak Tartesh requires excellent horsemanship and balls the size of pumpkins as riders gallop full speed while trying pick up a beheaded goat to throw in a goal. Several games are usually played in a series with match ending once a team scores 3 points.

Behind the Libations.

Yet behind the games and libations remembrance of the “The Great Patriotic war” has become an important reminder of a not so distant communist past that influenced traditional ways of life within the Central Asian region.

A legacy of forced military conscription under the leadership of Joseph Stalin has made military service a common narrative for an entire generation of men and women. In all of the Central Asian states, traditional cultures and ways of life were disrupted in order to continue the fight against fascist forces and advance the reach of Marxist-Leninist ideology. One often hears stories from surviving Kyrgyz veterans of a nomadic upbringing disrupted by forced conscription in a foreign land.

In nearly every Kyrgyz village monuments have been erected bearing the names of living veterans and fallen soldiers – a constant reminder of the true cost of war.

From the deserts of Northwestern China to the shores of the Adriatic Sea many cultures have long celebrated the ancient Persian holiday of Nowruz. This festival usually observed on the 20th or 21st March marks the end of winter and the arrival of spring. Bringing together families, friends, and entire communities, Nowruz is filled with a variety of festivities and cultural traditions that are of great importance to the peoples of Central Asia

Entertainment: Horses and Scissors
The food and festivities of this holiday are as unique as the variety of people that celebrate this ancient tradition. Within Central Asia, each ethnic group has their own distinct cultural practices when celebrating Norwuz. In Tajik villages, children go from door to door on the eve of Nowruz presenting flowers to their neighbors in exchange for candy. Uzbeks, Kazakhs, and Kyrgyz play horse games such as Ulak Tartish also known as Buskashi in Afghanistan and Uzbekistan.

In the small Kyrgyz village of Kurpuldek unexpected snow made horse games too dangerous. Instead, villagers passed the time while food was being prepared with a strange game similar to pin the tail on the donkey and the smashing of the piñata in Spanish cultures. In this game an individual is blindfolded and spun around then given a pair of scissors with which they must cut a dangling string from a rope to win a prize. A great source of laughter and anxiety, participants are heckled and given directions by the crowd.

Food: “To Each His Own”
Food is one of the most important pieces of this festival that provides a glimpse into the roots of each culture. Kazakhs usually prepare Nowruz-Kuzhe, a healthy dish made of seven grains and cereals similar to porridge that is eaten before and after the holiday. Uzbeks celebrate Nowruz with one of their national dishes, Kok-Samsa, a meat and vegetable pastry sprinkled with fresh mint that resembles a far healthier Hot Pocket.

The Kyrgyz people celebrate with an important national meat and noodle dish called Beshbarmak, which literally means 5 fingers. This tasty dish is essentially an entire boiled horse, cow, or lamb cooked until tender that is served with noodles and a mutton broth called Sorpa. The guest of honor generally the eldest is given the head with the prized cut of the cheek. Young boys are usually presented the legs and shoulders where as women are never given knucklebones in fear that consumption will cause them to be forever unwed.

Holiday: Family and Friends
Like most holidays throughout the world, Nowruz brings together families and friends. Within the small Kyrgyz village of Kurpuldek an hour and a half outside of Bishkek, one village elder spoke of the importance of this holiday. “Now our children and children’s children live all over, some in Bishkek, some in Russia. In my old age seeing relatives and members of my community is the most important thing. I am Kyrgyz and family means everything,” he said. Wither its Thanksgiving or Passover holidays not only celebrate unique traditions but also bring together loved ones, a reality that transcends perceived cultural differences.

Title Image: Salam- The sellers of Bishkek’s Osh Bazaar wait for potential customers, showing off their best cuts to any interested passerby.

Bazaars have long served as an important place for the exchange of goods and information. Nearly all wares ranging from electronics to clothes can be bought for a fraction of the price. The hustle and bustle of Bishkek’s Osh Bazaar offers a fascinating glimpse into this locally preferred method of commerce.

Osh bazaar is the largest of the city’s three markets, and consists of indoor and outdoor sellers. Individuals travel from distant villages selling livestock, local foodstuffs, and fresh vegetables. Fragrant spices and vibrant produce paired with calls of anxious sellers makes Osh Bazaar an unforgettable experience.